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Godzilla Collecting Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

or What the heck is a C9 MIB Marmit Vinyl Paradise King-Goji anyway?

Version 3.00
Created By Richard Cox (
Maintained By Richard Cox

Where can I find the Godzilla Collecting FAQ?

The most current version of the FAQ is on the Web at <>. A link and message is posted to the ClubTokyoC mailing list when warranted.

Any changes or additions should be directed to Richard Cox (

Mirror copy locations include:

Translations Available:

The Godzilla Collecting FAQ :: Contents

[1.1] Terminology

[1.1.1] Genre Terminology and Definitions [ + ]
[1.1.2] Collecting Terminology and Definitions [ - ]

As with any hobby, it is essential to know what the terminology is. With the arrival of online purchasing, through both eBay and both online dealers and collectors, this has become even more imperitive. On the flipside, it is important for sellers to understand the terminology so as to better represent their items and to prevent miscommunication and bad feelings.

Luckily, many of the terms associated with Godzilla collecting is also applicable to other hobbies, especially insofar as toys.

[] The "C" Scale
The "C" Scale is a grading system wherein the C (Condition) is coupled with a number from 1 to 10 in order to better represent the condition of a piece of memorabilia. C10 is perfect, while C1 might as well be a dog toy or landfill fodder. Decimal points are also employed often, usually a .5 (ex. C8.5). Any other decimals used are, quite frankly, clutter and useless for the most part. a "+" or "-" (ex. C8.5+) are also used a lot, and are perfectly valid, though they too can confuse the matter. As with any grading system, a position on the scale will vary from person to person, rendering it all, to an extent, somewhat arbitrary. Make no mistake though, a C10 is always a C10 and is FLAWLESS. Also there is no such thing as a "C9 except for.." or "...otherwise a C10". It either is or it isn't, period. In any case, the C Scale does give the buyer one of the best summaries of the condition of a piece. The C Scale is not, however, a good substitute for a highly detailed description and good photos, but instead a nice compliment and method of summarizing the descriptions and photos.
C10- Mint condition
A flawless piece that looks exactly like the day it was made. I can't stress enough that there is abolutely nothing wrong with a C10 toy. A perfect example. All parts and accessories are included.
C9- Near Mint condition
A toy that has almost no wear. All parts and accessories are included. The only flaws are miniscule and probably not immediately obvious.
C8- Excellent condition
A piece that has minor wear. This is the most common condition that a modern example would be found in, and is still a very good, collectible piece. There will be a few evident defects, but absolutely nothing to detract from the overall appeal of the toy, poster, etc. There might be missing accessories, but no broken or missing parts on the toy itself.
C7- Very Fine - Fine condition
A toy that has noticeable wear and tear but does not have any damage. There has been some obvious handling, but is still a good display piece. There might be some minor breaks, and accessories might be missing. Many vintage toys are found in this condition.
C6- Very Good condition
Noticeable wear and tear, some damage that is quite obvious but not too distracting or unappealing.
C5- Good condition
Definitely a piece that has been around the block. Major pieces or accessories will be missing, large areas of paint scratched away. Tears, folds, creases, etc. are evident. Can still be displayed, but defects will be obvious.
C4- Fair condition
Major defects and problems are evident. All of the problems of C5 but more prominent. Would make a great spare parts piece for a toy, but otherwise most collectors wouldn't touch one of these.
C3- Poor condition
In many cases, these are more damaged than intact, and possibly only salvagable as spare parts.
C2, C1- Bad condition
Speaks for itself. Only upon close inspection can these probably be identified as what they once were. Missing parts, huge tears and chunks, no paint whatsoever, Rover's tooth marks. Perhaps at one point in it's life it was a lawn ornament. You never know.
[] CNP
Complete, with No Package.
[] FS, FT
For Sale, For Trade
[] Loose
Just as it says. The packaging might be included, but the toy has been removed.
[] M, Mint, "Deadstock" Mint
Perfect in all ways. Not a single little defect anywhere. A "deadstock" piece is one that never left the factory and entered the market. Literally dead stock. Usually these end up in C9 or C10 condition, but are found in lesser condition. Deadstock mint is in every way a C10 piece.
Mint in Bag/Box
The toy or item is in C10 condition, in packaging. Note that this does not mention the condition in any way of the packaging itself, which could be in C4 condition.
Mint In Mint Bag/Box
Just as it states. The packaging could have conceivably been opened, though.
Mint in Sealed Bag/Box
A perfect piece in never-opened packaging. Note this also does not state the condition of the packaging. MIMSB would be Mint Sealed, but you get the idea.
Mint on Card and Mint on Mint Card. See [].
[] MWT
Mint With Tag- Refers primarily to the tags that accompany most Bandai action figures. Note that this doesn't mention whether or not the tag is currently attached to the figure or not.
[] NM, Near Mint
See []. A C9 piece.
Never Removed from Box. The packaging has been opened to inspect the toy itself, but the toy was never removed. All inserts are still in place and untouched. This states nothing about the condition of the toy or packaging itself, though many wrongly assume both are C9+
[] One-Sheet, Two-Sheet, Insert, etc.
See [2.2.1]
[] UP
Unpunched- This refers to the perforated hanger hole area on many figure cards or bags which would have to be removed for the toy to hang from a peg. "Unpunched" is when this area has never been punched out.
Want To Buy, Want To Trade

[1.2] A Short History of Godzilla Collecting

The release of Godzilla (Gojira) in 1954 brought with it the first of the Godzilla collectibles, in the form of the theatrical poster. Of course, posters followed with subsequent re-releases, both in Japan and abroad, as well as with forthcoming movies.

The first non-theatrical merchandise was a gun game that coincided with the release of the second Godzilla film in 1955, and also heralded a moratorium on Godzilla collectibles for most of the next decade. Finally, in 1963 and 64 the ball got rolling again with Ideal's Godzilla game and the well known Aurora model kit. With the astounding success of these toys, the first Japanese toymaker took notice, and Marusan issued the first of their Godzilla vinyls in 1966. The rest, as they say, is history.

[1.2.1] Posters and Theater-Related Merchandise [ + ]
[1.2.2] Toys

Ah, toys. For many a collector toys, specifically vinyl figures, form the backbone of their Godzilla collections. As stated previously, the first Godzilla toy was actually produced in the U.S., and was a shooting game. From that point there really weren't any toys of note issued (barring model kits) until the Marusan Company, in 1964, issued their Godzilla model kit, and followed it up in 1966 with the first ever Godzilla vinyl figures. The rest, as they say, is history.

Of course, limiting the scope of Godzilla toys to just the vinyl figures, as popular as they are, is to ignore a wide variety of other neat stuff out there, from die-cast toys to tin toys, games, and both candy and capsule toys, to name only a few.

[] Vintage vinyl figures (1954-1982) [ + ]
[] Modern vinyl figures (1983-Present) [ + ]
[] Candy and Capsule Toys [ + ]
[] Miscellaneous [ + ]
[1.2.3] Model Kits [ + ]
[1.2.4] Miscellaneous

In addition to the above, a veritable plethora of other types of collectibles have been issued over the years, and to attempt to list them all would be an overwhelming task. However, some of the key areas would include prototypes and props, recordings, books, videos, laserdisc sets, household items, trading cards, and original artwork.

[1.3] Where can I learn more about Godzilla toys and collectibles? [ + ]

[1.4] Is there a way to "check out" a person before purchasing items advertised on the Internet? [ + ]

[1.5] Can I detach the tags from my Bandai figures without affecting their value?

In a word, yes. Both the cardboard and earlier plastic tags can be easily reattached using the appropriate gun and plastic hanger, readily available at any office supply store. Be careful, however, to reattach the tag in it's original hole instead of punching a new one through the vinyl. This WILL affect the value of the piece.

When buying figures with loose tags, be aware that many tags look generic and similar to one another, barring two things; the character's name in Japanese and a serial number specific to that figure. It is not unheard of to get the wrong tag loose with a toy (or, one assumes, the wrong tag reattached to a figure). See also [1.9].

[1.6] What's the difference between a candy and capsule toy?

See [] for detailed information. Shortly, "capsule" toys are just that; small figures, generally 1-4 inches in height, available in vending machines, while candy toys tend to come boxed, either individually or in sets, with a packet of candy and sometimes a trading card or other extras.

[1.7] Who is "Jiras", and why does he look like Godzilla?

Jiras (spellings vary slightly) was a foe from the original Ultraman series (episode 10) based upon a Godzilla suit. The Mosu-Goji suit was modified for the series simply by adding a frill around the neck. Which I will point out that Ultraman rips off, in one of the more violent memories from my childhood...

[1.8] For that matter who is Gomess?

Godzilla was recycled in the first episode of ULTRA Q as Gomess. Godzilla, Gigan and Ghidorah were all used in Toho's ZONE FIGHTER series.

[1.9] What are those numbers on the bar code of a Bandai figure tag / box?

The serial numbers, also known as stock numbers, of a Bandai figure are unique to each toy, thus can be used in order to be sure of getting a correct tag with a figure, which could otherwise be a problem for those earlier figures whose tags bear no distinguishing characteristics not in Japanese. The serial number is located on the tag of the figure, above the barcode. The earliest figures, instead of a serial number, had a Collection Number.

The serial numbers are, for the most part, a series of three strings of numbers separated by dashes. The first string, 205020, is carried by all Bandai Godzilla figures (as well as other Bandai series figures) with a serial number; the second, and most important, is individual to each figure. The third string denotes the original price of the vinyl toy in Yen.

[1.10] Was a Trendmasters 10 Inch Biollante figure ever produced?

There was one produced, albeit in limited quantities, and only overseas. The 10" Biollante was never released in the United States.

[1.11] Did Bandai issue any "Sample" figures of their G2K Theater Exclusive?

In a word, no. Many different fake prototypes of this figure have shown up both on eBay and from various dealers. Each and every one of these are custom dye jobs and are not prototypes, limited editions, first shots, or whatever else you've heard. For more information, check out this article.

[1.12] What was the Toho Video Fan Club?

This club was run by Toho itself, and often offered exclusive vinyl figures and other collectibles. Toho sanctioned which figures were offered for sale through the club's newsletter.

The Godzilla Collecting FAQ :: References and Credits

The below books, people, and web sites have been consulted in the creation of this FAQ:

Club Tokyo :: Kaiju Collectibles Reference Database (, by Richard Cox and Michael Johnson

Godzilla Tohotopia (, by Mark Lockwood; web site currently unavailable

John Parkinson

Recent changes :